
A Walk in Stirling
Posted 2019-08-10 02:59:20Leading towards Stirling Castle, a circuitous path known as the Back Walk rises from Dumbarton Road and follows the line of the old town wall. Historical information boards along the way offer insights into features such as the watchtower built into the raw rock. On the lower slopes where trees and shrubs flourish look out for the wood sculpture of a howling wolf. Legend has it that in the 9th century a howling wolf saved Stirling by alerting the townsfolk to the midnight approach of Viking raiders. Now Stirling’s coat of arms includes the figure of a wolf.
A stroll here was not always
pleasant or safe, however. The Royal Court in Stirling was forever being
attacked and as an outer defence, the wall was constructed in 1547 when King
Henry VIII of
England was seeking to force a marriage between the infant Mary, Queen of Scots
and his son Edward.
Further up the path, a gate in iron
railings gives access to a rocky knoll known as Ladies’ Rock. Some believe it
was so called as the extra height allowed ladies of the castle a better view of
medieval tournaments being held on flat ground, now called the Valley, lying
between Castle and town. More likely the name derives from Our Lady’s Hill, the
site of a pre-Reformation shrine.
The Valley has been a cemetery for
years and predominant amongst many impressive gravestones is the Star Pyramid,
a smaller version of the structures more usually associated with Egypt. Another
headstone, the so-called Service Stone, is pitted on both sides with musket
shot possibly from being utilised as a shield during General Monck’s siege of
Stirling Castle in 1651.
Continuing along the path and up a
few steps leads to the Castle esplanade where a statue of King Robert the Bruce
is a popular subject for camera toting tourists. Their photographic efforts
might also include the memorial tower to Sir William Wallace on tree clothed
Abbey Craig in the middle distance and the Ochil Hills in the background.
From the esplanade, stout wooden
gates allow a way inside the castle’s defences. As well as being a fortress of
great strength enclosing a palace that was a place of safety for generations of
Scottish kings, Stirling Castle was almost a self-contained village. Visitors
can wander through well-preserved kitchens and in the footsteps of royalty. The
restored Great Hall, built for James 4th around 1503, is especially
impressive. After years of neglect, an entirely new hammer beam ceiling crowns
a room of lofty proportions complete with wall hangings, embroidery, stained
glass and thrones. The so-called Stirling Heads that cover the ceiling of
another room are portraits carved in Polish oak and painted. They were created
to show the wealth, status and connections of the Scottish monarchy with the
intention of impressing guests.
Outside on the battlements, a view
indicator helps in identifying distant hills and sites of battles, including
Bannockburn in 1314 and Stirling Bridge in1297 that influenced the course of Scottish
history.
Before heading down into the streets
of the old town nestling below the castle, it’s worth stopping off in the
visitor centre at the end of the esplanade. In the comfort of the small cinema,
a potted history of Stirling from the 1100s onwards
vividly unwinds.
Back out in the daylight tread
carefully on the cobble stones of Castle Wynd leading past Argyll’s Lodging.
This nobleman’s town house is now refurbished to show how the nobility lived in
17th century Stirling. Furniture and fittings are based on the
original inventory of house contents at that time.
Further down the brae Cowane’s
Hospital built between the years 1639 – 49 offered charity to unsuccessful
merchants. Work on the building will see it restored to its original glory.
Nearby, on the edge of Valley cemetery is the
Church of the Holy Rude whose oak roof timbers were shaped by adze 600 and more
years ago. Here in 1567, preceded by a Protestant sermon preached by John Knox,
James 6th, a mere infant of thirteen months(baptised a Roman
Catholic seven months earlier in Stirling Castle) was crowned King
of Scotland. Meanwhile his mother, Mary Queen of Scots, languished in Lochleven
Castle in Fife.
In 1651, during a campaign to subdue
the Highlands, General George Monck, who was Oliver Cromwell’s
Commander-in-Chief in Scotland, set up his guns in the tower of the church for
the last successful attack on Stirling Castle.
Further disruption of a different
kind took place in the 17th century when the church was divided into
two parts for two different congregations. Rival ministers would then voice
their religious disagreements over a wall. The wall is long gone and stained
glass windows symbolise more enlightened times. In 1935 the Church and
congregations were re-united.
Changes for the better would have
topped many wish lists of those unfortunates who landed in the Old Town Jail on
St. John Street where Victorian punishments were meted out in an attempt to
correct ‘the sinning ways of those lacking morals’. In 1844 one cell held 24
prisoners. A visiting judge described the conditions as ‘wretched’ and
‘fearful’. The new prison, opened in 1847 had a modern design which allowed for
solitary confinement, constant observation and hard work. As well, the chaplain
could preach to all the prisoners whilst they were still in their cells. A tour of the jail can be taken with
guide/actors who recreate the harshness of these times.
Markets took place on Broad Street.
The Mercat (market) Cross that stands at the lower end is topped with a statue
of a unicorn known locally as “the puggy”. Under it, proclamations were read
out and important occasions celebrated. On royal birthdays, town officials
drank copious toasts round bonfires while pipers or trumpeters played and
church bells were rung. Rioting also took place here such as the one in
December 1706 in protest at the proposed Union with England.
Continuing downhill past narrow
buildings with crow stepped gables leads to the modern centre of Stirling.
There is a choice of pubs, cafes and restaurants but if the weather is fine
it’s worth considering picnicking about a mile away at Cambuskenneth Abbey and
leaving the bustle behind.
Head past the railway station and
cross the road-bridge over the railway lines. At the end of a street of terraced
houses fronted by neat gardens, a pedestrian bridge spans a bend in the River
Forth. On the far side, Cambuskenneth village has won Britain in Bloom Awards
four times over the years.
Of Cambuskenneth Abbey (the abbey of
Stirling founded around 1140 by David 1st) only the restored bell tower still stands.
Where kings stayed as guests and Scottish parliaments met, low lines of stone above
the grass are all that remain of the once impressive abbey. Behind railings
there is a reconstructed tomb of King James 3rd (1452-88) and Queen
Margaret of Denmark.
A return to the starting point of this trip back in time will take you through Stirling’s thoroughly modern temples to consumerism.
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